Come appreciate the song of peepers (little frogs) at night, the smell of cinnamon bark, the taste of nutmeg ice cream, and the grainy heat of sand underfoot.

Grenada used to be known as "The Spice Island of the Caribbean," a label stemming from its history of colonization by France and Britain.  Many spices originally brought from other lands for slave plantations remain here.  This little island (133-square-miles) produces one third of the world's nutmeg.  And then there's the fruit:  bananas, mangoes, coconuts, French cashews, soursop, breadfruit, papaya... you get the idea.  Then this fertile, relatively untouched spot on the cusp of a wider influx of visitors from the non-Caribbean world, was suddenly devastated by a hurricane. Never to be forgotten, Ivan swept across the island, literally leveling great swaths, in September 2004.

Nearly five years later, Grenada (pronounced Gra-nay-da) has resumed its expanded place in Caribbean tourism. Many of its best attractions, recently refurbished, remain free of charge. Today's visitors finds many families hanging out together and calmly building sandcastles on the beach, as well as luxury hotel and condominium properties under construction along almost every shoreline.

Grenada does not boast of all-inclusive resorts with elaborate children's programs like many other tropical destinations, but it has a lot to offer for family time amidst a distinctive, and very present, island culture. Families traveling to the island will benefit from the improved infrastructure, renovated public facilities, a more sophisticated cruise port and more upscale hotels, all manned by the resilient Grenadians. 

Grenada's City & Sights

The capital city of St. George's is best to explore on foot, due to its hills and narrow streets.  Interesting architecture, little shops, and outdoor cafés abound.  The market in St. George's operates every day except Sunday, and bustles most on Saturdays.  The Melville Street Cruise Terminal opened just after Hurricane Ivan departed, and welcomes ships from Windjammer, Norweigan, Princess, and other popular cruise lines.  The market comes especially alive with activity on days when a cruise is in port.  

The Grand Anse beach area has several oceanfront hotels (including Grenada's first boutique style villa complex, the 21-cottage Mount Cinnamon Grenada), restaurants, and dive shops.  I found it a great place to read, walk, bob in the ocean, and watch crabs at dusk.  The view of misty mountains across the bay is breathtaking. 

River Antoine Rum Distillery ( 473/442-7109) operates the same way that it did in the 1800s, surrounded by fields of tall sugarcane stalks that the river-run water wheel will eventually crush.  The cane juice boils, ferments, and distills to never less than 150 proof!  There's a tasting at the end of the tour for brave adults, and children will appreciate the stinky smell.

Dougalston Spice Boucan ( 473/437-0426) was originally a sugar cane plantation.  It is now a working farm with a visitor center focusing on all things growing.  See and learn about cocoa, cinnamon, loofahs, cloves, tonka beans, calabash, ginger, and more.  Touching (and smelling) the displays is definitely encouraged! 

Belmont Estate ( 473/442-9524) is a 300-year-old plantation in the parish of St. Patrick, with nature trails and a living history Heritage Village.  Smell cocoa fermenting, wander through an organic vegetable garden, meet animals in the petting zoo, and listen to African drumming.  A buffet lunch is available Sunday through Friday; reservations are required.

Natural Wonders

Grand Etang National Rainforest covers 3,816 acres, including some private plantation lands.  On one of the many trails through this lush area, you may see a crater lake, Mount Qua Qua, or Annandale Falls. Hiking with a guide is recommended and will blend some local lore into your journey.  The terrain can be challenging, so inquire ahead if you are bringing the kids.  The rainforest lived up to its name the day my group went hiking, and the wet rocks and mud, all on a steep grade, were slick. Our guide, Telfor, was excellent, and he can be reached at  473/442-6200. Visitors will find a new Welcome Center and public facilities as a result of renovations after Hurricane Ivan.

Arawak Islands ( 473/444-3577) is not actually an archipelago, but a natural product factory and store located in a historic house.  Visitors can tour the facilities, where all products are handmade.  Workers decorate spice bags, filter perfumes, and pour wax into coconut shells to make candles.  White bars of soap line the walls like piano keys, waiting for infusion with natural scents like nutmeg (of course!) and vanilla. 

Levera National Park includes a lovely picnic area along its Bathway Beach, with vendors nearby to possibly provide the picnic.  A reef buffers the incoming waves to form a calm swimming lagoon, but never swim beyond the reef, where the ocean's temperament is quite the opposite! Families will want to visit the site of the 60 unit Levera Resort & Spa (an eco-resort scheduled to open in mid-2009), where environmentally sound design and construction will produce one- to three-bedroom villas, a landscape of indigenous plantings, and a restored turtle breeding habitat within the park.

What About the Animals? 

Grenada has no shortage of plants, but inquisitive kids enjoy seeing animals as well.  Of the farm variety, there are plenty of cattle, goats, sheep, and chickens scattered around.  Wild animals are more elusive, but an occasional gecko or even iguana may cross your path.  For creatures under the sea, most beach hotels have snorkeling equipment and nearby dive shops.

If you are traveling between April and July and your kids can handle a late night, sea turtle watching could be an intriguing option.  With the protection of darkness, turtles haul themselves on shore to lay eggs and marine biologists accompany visitors to check it out.  For more information, contact Caribbean Horizons at  473/444-1555.  This company offers several special interest tours. Having never lost a child-like fascination with animals myself, I was delighted with the land turtles (I didn't make it on a sea turtle trip) and various lizards that I met.  And as the sun set and I sat motionless on the beach, crabs scuttled in and out of their burrows past my feet. 

The family-owned Grenada Seafaris company offers waterborne sightseeing close to shore, so that families with kids of all ages can appreciate the history, ecology and geography of the island. This outfitter comes recommended for its well-trained and experienced tour guides and all tours are given on a comfortable and safe 30-foot-long vessel.

In an age where the biggest thrill ride defines the best destination, Grenada offers a different kind of family vacation.  It is a place for playing and chatting on the beach, learning how things grow and how people make things from the earth, interacting with another culture, and appreciating the palm trees, mountains, and the sapphire blue ocean. Sound enticing? To get the full experience, you'll need to see, hear, taste, smell, and feel the island for yourself.

Getting There & Getting Around 

All visitors must present a return or onward ticket and passport identification to enter the country.  Travelers from Britain, Canada, and the U.S. may show two documents proving citizenship (at least one with picture) as alternate identification.

Getting Around the island is easy because taxis and minibuses are widely available.  Car rental requires a Grenadian driver's license, which visitors purchase at the Traffic Department for US$12.  Rental costs about US$50-$60 per day.  Remember that driving is on the left (especially in the roundabouts)!

A great way to hit some sights mentioned in this story is to take a guided tour.  Many operators play up ecotourism, with river tubing, whale-watching, mountain biking and Jeep expeditions particularly popular, but there are a variety of active and cultural itineraries, so call ahead to discuss what you're looking for.