Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures

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Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures
Kyle McCarthy
Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures
Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures
Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures
Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures
Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures
Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures
Riviera Nayarit, Mexico For Eco-Adventures

From the hip resort of Puerto Vallarta to the jungles of the Sierra Madres, this Mexican state offers something to everyone in the family and at bargain prices.

Riviera Nayarit is the lush coastal region of Mexico's Nayarit state, extending from the gated resort comunity of Nuevo Vallarta (pronounced N'wave-oh VY-ar-tah) north to the San Blas peninsula. Families will find diverse cultural and environmental riches as well as nice beaches facing the calm, shallow Banderas Bay. Although the region shares an airport with the established beach resort of Puerto Vallarta farther south, it has a greater abundance of eco-adventures. Riviera Nayarit is an attractive getaway year round that's being recognized for its value by many travelers and publications such as Frommer's Budget Travel. It boasts a mild tropical climate that averages 80°F (27°C); however, it can be very hot and humid during the summer rainy season and cool on winter evenings. Here's a look at what to do, from south to north along the coast.

Puerto Vallarta

The picturesque port of Puerto Vallarta has been famous since 1963, when director John Huston, a resident, brought in Richard Burton and Ava Gardner to film "Night of the Iguana." While there, Burton began a public romance with Elizabeth Taylor -- a Hollywood love story heard around the world. The cobblestones, whitewashed traditional homes and quarter of resident ex-pats, Gringo Gulch, are still there.

The oceanfront boardwalk, el Malécon -- now cluttered with T-shirt and ice cream shops -- continues to attract the international community. Visit at sunset, when the mimes, street performers and magicians are out in full force; across from the famous larger-than-life sculpture of a mother with children climbing stairs is the shop of Sergio Bustamente, the noted jeweler and sculptor who did the work. 

Stroll over to Calle Independencia to see the classic Mexican main square and up to Calle Morelos to see many of the town's unique clothing, jewelry, crafts boutiques and high-style clubs and gay bars. Among the many gourmet eateries are the pricey Cafe des Artistes (an award-winning French dining room) and Los Xitomates (nouvel Mexican dishes).

Nuevo Vallarta

This purpose-built enclave of contemporary beachfront resorts is a 15-minute drive or a water taxi away from Puerto Vallarta.  The boat pier is at the Paradise Village Marina, just part of the facilities at this huge, family-welcoming resort complex. Since Nuevo Vallarta is a planned community of hotels and condominiums, there's not much to see or do, but we can recommend a fine seafood restaurant that is worth a visit. Laguna Tino's (322/ 297-02-21; 2da Entrada Nvo. Vallarta Km 1.2) is on the entry road and its' open daily for lunch and dinner.

San Blas - La Tovara National Park

Families with school-age kids will enjoy the full day excursion we made to San Blas, the colorful small town where Junipero Serra, founder of the famous California Missions, was born. Our guide Miguel, with Banderas Bay Travel, was so passionate about his country, its proud history, and Mexican culture that he transformed a scenic van tour into an unforgettable memory. A small fort and lighthouse guard the entrance to the port of San Blas, which hosts a fleet of shrimp boats that supply the region’s restaurants.

Be sure to visit the main square where colorfully painted bars and shops are tucked between the new city hall, church and school.  We were captivated by the town’s lively energy and decided to return one day to the restored Hacienda Hotel, where simple rooms with ceiling fans surround a large open air courtyard and swimming pool.

San Blas and the village of Matachen are gateways to La Tovara National Park, where visitors can hire a small boat to tour the mangrove swamps. It's said this ecosystem hosts over 250 species of birds, including the black-bellied tree duck, great blue heron and roseate spoonbill on their migrations, and the bumblebee hummingbird and Mexican woodnymph.  The Festival of Migratory Birds is celebrated each January.  Our guide compared the region to Panama in terms of its diversity and, on our brief cruise, we saw large turtles, heron, egrets, crocodiles (the species crocodrilo agoutis inhabits this brackish water.) 

Guides stop the boats at the muddy, sad-looking Crocodile Reserve in El Manantial of La Camelota for a walk and talk about baby crocodiles; it reputedly has a good breeding program.


Sea Turtles & Whales

Known as the region's official mascot, four protected species of sea turtle (leatherback turtles, Olive Ridley turtles, hawksbill turtles, green turtles) make Riviera Nayarit their home. Families can watch these noble creatures come ashore to lay eggs in the sand (June to September) or assist as the tiny hatchlings break out of their shells and return to the sea (August to November).  On every beach, local volunteers and hotel security patrol each evening to be sure that nesting turtles are not disturbed by passersby, and that new nests are marked so the eggs can be relocated for safekeeping. 

Wildlife Connection, an eco-tour group based in Marina Vallarta, offers an evening tour so visitors can participate in the release of baby turtles and learn more about their conservation. Wednesday nights during the nesting season, the Grupo Ecológico de la Costa Verde marine turtle nursery in San Francisco conducts an educational slideshow at the Costa Azul Hotel, often followed by the releasing of young hatchlings.

For long term volunteer opportunities, contact the Sociedad Ecologica de Occidente (Oscar Aranda Mena served as our wonderful guide).

Families visiting between November and April can see hundreds of humpbacked whales as they migrate south from the Arctic to raise raise their calves in the protected waters of  Banderas Bay. Vallarta Adventures offers a variety of whale watching tours appropriate for all ages and physical abilities.



Sierra Madres: Culture or Outdoor Thrills

Two great daytrips are offered by Vallarta Adventures, one of the most experienced adventure tour operators.

A good day-long expedition covers the Sierra Madres region pretty well for less active families, courtesy of a converted Mercedes diesel truck. En route, well trained guides relate Mexico’s history and the culture of its indigenous Huichol Indian tribes. One of the day’s highlights is a stop at a local home where families can watch tortillas being made on a grill, then eat them with fresh guacamole and salsa. Guides lead a brief nature walk through forested land to talk about plant life, insects and the forest ecology. After the walk, the truck parks near a private beach at Punta Monterrey, for a barbecue and swim in the active surf. Lots of tequila is passed around on the ride home, but we found it all in good fun.

Energetic parents and teens will enjoy this company's Outdoor Adventures multi-sport day much more: begin with a speed boat ride to a Banderas Bay beach, where you mount 4x4 Unimogs (like ATVs) to ascend to a mountainous base camp. From here, you can snack, hop on a mule, and journey into the sub-tropical forest for a zip line tour, some rappelling down waterfalls, and lots of wet fun.


Road Trip: Route 200 Along the Nayarit Coast

Scenic Route 200 is a two lane blacktop, well paved with minimal traffic. Using a bit of Spanish, a good map and a rental car, families can have a fun day out and meet the locals. 

Heading north from Nuevo Vallarta, you'll come across Bucerias first, a hip town where those who work in the region's tourist trade can afford to live. And live well they do. This tiny fishing town is a popular spot for shopping and dining (Mark’s Bar & Grill is terrific). Each January, Bucerias is the setting for the “Virgen de la Paz”  festival which includes the blessing of the fishing fleet.

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is a more authentic Mexican village for a fresh seafood meal or a stroll on the beach. From Route 200, you can see the barren tree struck by lightning whose remaining limbs form a cruz or cross. This oceanfront town is undergrowing rapid growth as a large government-sponsored marina and a residential complex are under construction.

Punta de Mita is a small town located at the northernmost point of Banderas Bay, where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortes meet. The region is best known to Americans for the Four Seasons Punta Mita, which dominates a huge gated community outside town with hotels (including the new St. Regis Punta Mita), private residences and condominiums, and myriad golf, tennis, watersports and other recreation facilities.

Punta Mita beaches are fine, white sand with close-in coral reefs; deep sea fishing, whale watching and surfing can be enjoyed nearby. The funky open-air restaurants along the coast are popular weekend destinations for Mexican families, who drive up, park, enjoy the beach and dine on fresh seafood and refreshing drinks  There are also surf shops, snorkeling and dive equipment rentals, tours by boat and places to horseback ride.

The original town of Punta de Mita is under siege, with more luxury hotels, a number of elegant residential communities and more championship golf courses to come. (Already built is the private 7,014-yard Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course at the Four Seasons.)

Litibu is the next area slated for development by the government in Riviera Nayarit, but there's not much to warrant a stop now. Brand new branches of the popular Iberostar and Dreams resorts groups have arrived.  

Sayulita is a well known surfing destination (it's even discussed on CW's "Gossip Girls" TV show). This artsy, hippie community is packed with toes-in-the-sand cafes, funky beach shacks, luxurious private villas and day spas. In the autumn high-surf season, it's especially popular with young singles from Southern California, but it's a fun daytrip any time.

San Francisco (locally known as San Pancho) is home to a notable Polo Club between November and May. In addition to the charms of what appears to be a traditional Mexican village, the town boasts outfitters who arrange horseback riding, diving, climbing, yoga and jungle excursions. Allow time to walk around the narrow streets;  San Pancho's large ex-pat community imbues it with a sophistication that supports many fine restaurants and shops.

Farther up the coast is pretty Lo de Marcos, said to evoke the Riviera Nayarit of 30 years ago. This fishing village's broad stretch of beach is being talked about by resort developers; at present, there are some Mexican markets, snack bars and a new golf course under development.

Rincón de Guayabitos is more fun and the colorful boats moored in its half moon harbor give it a Mediterranean charm. There is a brightly painted outpost of  the Decameron all-inclusive hotel group, making Rincon a center of low-budget and off-the-beaten path family tourism.  This port is said to be an excellent base for serious fishermen, and families will appreciate that Grupo de Ecologistas de Nayarit hosts two sea turtle nesting camps nearby.