Insider tips on the real Nassau that Bahamians love, not so very far away from the tourist spots and visiting cruise ships.

When you think of the Bahamas, you are most likely to conjure up images of pink resorts, family beach vacations, and other tropical paradise-infused themes. However, after a recent trip to explore the "authentic" Nassau, I discovered there is so much more to see on New Providence Island, only one of the more than 700 islands included in the Bahamas.

A getaway to the Nassau that Bahamians love -- four days of eating, drinking, talking with friendly island residents and getting to know their culture -- is a totally different experience than a family vacation based on the enormous cruise ships and hotel chains that consume the landscape of the capital city.

Meet the Real Bahamas

As the capital and largest city, Nassau Bahamas offers a true escape to paradise with an overwhelmingly warm and friendly atmosphere, a far cry from what you would expect of a major city. Everywhere you go, people are smiling and enjoying life, always welcoming you with a hello. It is as though you have entered into an episode of "Cheers" where everyone knows your name. In fact, it seems that the 260,000 inhabitants of the island of Nassau are one big family, and no matter how long it has been since you last saw each other, everyone remembers your name and they are always happy to see you.

The Bahamas offers Americans an escape to tropical paradise without many of the hassles, including currency exchange rates. The Bahamian dollar is equivalent to the U.S. dollar, so you do not need to get foreign currency in order to make purchases in Nassau. Most businesses in Nassau keep U.S. money on hand to make change for tourists, and will be happy to oblige if you request your change be given in U.S. dollars.

With gorgeous temperatures year-round, Nassau is always an excellent choice for a vacation. From dolphin encounters and scuba diving, to the Bahamas High Seas boat excursions you and your family will never be out of ideas and activities. The best part is that no matter how unlucky you are with weather, storms in Nassau only last for about 10 minutes. After a quick rest at your hotel during the afternoon drizzles, you can go out and explore the city some more, heading to your next great Bahamian adventure.

Junkanoo, Junkanoo!

I had such a great time in Nassau, but the one regret I have is that I did not go during the Junkanoo Festival. If you do not know about Junkanoo then boy are you in for a treat!

Prior to gaining independence in 1973, the Bahamas was under British rule. Legend has it, that during British rule the slaves would get three days off right around Christmas time. During those three days they celebrated like there was no tomorrow, with lavish costumes, some with headpieces weighing up to 90 pounds!

The festival begins at 12:01am on December 26, although the construction of costumes goes on throughout the year. The participating "tribes," who enjoy a healthy competition, include the Saxons, Valley Boys, Roots, One Family, Music Makers, and the Prodigal Son. Each year the tribes compete to see who has the best costume, float, and music, with the common thread between tribes being the gold skin drum, rattle, and fully regaled masks. All costumes are made out of paper, with straw as a secondary material, and six people are allowed to use cloth each year, making the costumes even more amazing, like something out of a "Project Runway" challenge.

You can learn all about Junkanoo and its origins at the EduCulture Museum (242/328-DRUM, 31 West St. at Delancey Street), a fascinating tribute to the costumes, music, and culture of the festival. At the museum, director Arlene Nash-Ferguson and her husband put on a great show, inviting guests to join in the fun by teaching them the sounds of Junkanoo and then having them play along on cowbells, drums, and rattles. The kids will also love that they can make masks and try the Junkanoo sodas, made special for the festival by the local Coca-Cola distributor, with fun flavors of lemon, lime, ginger, and more.

In addition to the EduCulture Museum, the director also does a back-to-school event each fall for the local kids, driving through the streets providing them with books and pencils and other school materials, as well as a new haircut for the new school year. All of this is free for the kids and their families, a great tradition that is now in its fifth year.

Authentically Bahamian Fun

Another favorite place of mine in Nassau was the Straw Market. Although the 90-degree weather made it somewhat uncomfortable, it was still a lot of fun. The market is an outdoor shopping area under tents, and it features handmade bags and other trinkets. Located in the downtown shopping area, the Straw Market is just steps away from the ocean, and is a favorite stop for the cruise ship excursions. Also in the shopping district are luxury retailers including Cartier, Versace, and Dooney & Bourke, along with independent retailers selling beachwear and other Bahamian necessities.

We also rented a boat from the Bahamas High Seas (242/393-3501) company, taking a boat ride out to Rose Island, passing by the island where Gilligan’s Island was filmed, and the island that actor Eddie Murphy used to own. On our boat excursion, we went for a swim in the bath-like waters, had delicious fresh fruit, and then went out to the middle of the ocean for some snorkeling. The great thing about being in the Bahamas is that no matter where you are, friendly tour guides are always eager to answer your questions, and tell you about their native land. Bahamian pride glows in the faces of all its residents, who are so proud of the history of their country that they want to share it with all visitors, inviting guests to be a part of the scene. Although we did not take advantage of the very popular dolphin encounters, they are also another option available to you. To find out more about Bahamian dolphin encounters check out our story on Bahamas: Swimming with Dolphins.

A highlight of our stay was the tour we took of our hotel, the Graycliff Hotel. The Graycliff is one of the oldest hotels in Nassau, featuring classically elegant decor, and all-star service at every turn. On our tour we took a gander through the renowned wine cellar, a collection that includes the oldest bottle of wine in the world. The collection features over 4,000 varieties from 15 countries, and continues to grow each year. After exploring the wine cellar we saw the cigar factory, where we saw the process of rolling cigars. Although a fascinating thing to see, the smells in the cigar factory are overpowering. If you like cigars then I highly recommend this tour, but children and those with respiratory problems might find it an annoyance.

Conch Crazy!

If you have ever been to the Caribbean then you know that seafood is the main course for every meal. Personally, I have never been a fan of seafood, so going to the Bahamas was a huge shift from my standard grilled cheese sandwiches. Not only is seafood served around the clock, but breakfast, lunch, and dinner consist of five-course meals. Bahamians love to eat, and they love to drink, so meals are always filled with a lot of energy, laughs, and smiles.

In Nassau, one thing I learned is that conch is served everywhere! Depending on the restaurant you go to, you could have conch salad, conch burgers, grilled conch, fried conch, and my personal favorite -- conch fritters -- a delicious appetizer, served with sauce, although it tastes just as good without the sauce. You can try all of these at the Fish Fry, a strip of beachside restaurants that run alongside the gorgeous turquoise ocean. We ate at the Jus Native Seafood Bar & Grill, nestled in a bright pink house, with umbrella tables outside. We opted to eat inside, as the skies were getting dark, and it was very clean.

A great place to check out is the Poop Deck Restaurant (242/393-DECK), which has two locations on the island at Sandy Port and Yacht Haven. Another beachfront restaurant, the Poop Deck is great for those, like me, who are not as adventurous with food, as they serve a variety of dishes including soups and salads, burgers and sandwiches.

For a true Bahamian experience, I recommend signing up for a People-to-People Experience. The People to People program allows visitors to meet a local at their house and enjoy an authentic meal with a resident Nassau family. The hospitality of Bahamians is unmatched. Our group was welcomed into the home by our hosts, their friends and family, and the best part was that they treated us like family, going out of their way to give us an up close and personal look into Bahamian culture. You can arrange one of these dinners by contacting the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism (800/BAHAMAS), and they will set the dinner up for you. You will get a wonderful, home cooked meal at no cost, though you may want to bring a small gift for your hosts.

If you are looking for a formal dining option, Café Matisse (242/356-7012) is a great restaurant, offering fine Italian cuisine. I had the penne alla monzese, which was delicious, and for dessert, I tried the warm chocolate tart, with vanilla sauce. The restaurant is adorned with Matisse paintings, and provides a very peaceful atmosphere, so kids may have trouble sitting still. At the end of our dinner, a violinist came around to our table and then went outside to play for the guests on the patio. He played "Somewhere Over the Rainbow," a perfect end to a wonderful adventure.

How to Get Around Nassau with Kids

The most important thing to know before coming to the Bahamas is that the citizens drive on the left side of the road, due to their British heritage. However many of their cars are designed like American cars, with the driver on the left side of the vehicle, despite driving on the opposite side of the road.

Most hotels and resorts offer a shuttle to and from the airport, which is always helpful. As far as transportation during your stay, you can opt for the public transit system, rent a car, or arrange for a driving service. The rental companies that have locations at the Nassau airport include Avis, Hertz, Budget, and Dollar. For those interested in taking public transit, the buses in Nassau run from all of the hotels to downtown Nassau, and cost $1.25 per person (note: exact change is required).

We opted for the driving service and selected the popular company Romeo’s Executive & Taxi Limousine Service (242/363-4728). Our driver was Romeo himself, one of the nicest people you will ever meet, who kept us entertained throughout our trip by telling us stories about the famous people he has driven around, as well as offering us his own wonderful history of the island. He even had meals with us and came on some excursions with us, and was always a delight to be around. His reputation as the most reliable and friendly host a group could have is well deserved.

Walking is also a viable option for tourists, depending on where you are going. The location of your hotel in relation to the attractions you want to visit is something you should consider when planning your trip. Renting a car or driver can get expensive. If you are staying at a resort that offers a lot of on-site activities, or your family isn't planning on seeing all areas of the island, then taking a cab for your adventures is another option. Prices for cabs are similar to New York City, so the fares are pretty expensive for two people, with additional passengers adding another fee.

Details, Details

From cruise ships to chain hotels, Nassau offers visitors the chance to stay in deluxe accommodations around the entire island. On my visit, I stayed at the historic Graycliff Hotel (800/476-0446, 8 thru 12 West Hill Street), founded in the 1700’s by a pirate, and later owned by the girlfriend of gangster Al Capone. With impeccable service and a friendly staff, you will be treated like royalty at the Graycliff Hotel.

The Graycliff is situated in the downtown area, close to the Straw Market, and just around the corner from the very first Dunkin’ Donuts in the Bahamas, a comfort for many Americans. Although within walking distance of the downtown shops, the Graycliff still provides guest a secluded spot in paradise. Amidst the wonderful shabby-chic décor is a true flashback to old-school glamour. There is an extensive wine cellar filled with over 275,000 bottles of the world’s finest wine, and a cigar factory, where you can see firsthand the process of rolling cigars. The secluded atmosphere explains why celebrities like Jay-Z and Beyoncé, and Nicholas Cage enjoy taking a break from their star-crazed lives to relax at the Graycliff without being hassled by a myriad of fans. During our stay, we saw Jimmy Fallon hanging out in the lounge.

Even if you do not stay at the Graycliff, you should still stop by for dinner or a cocktail in the lounge, where jazz-infused music is performed live at night, and singer Michael Bolton once gave an impromptu concert.

The Graycliff is somewhat pricey, and lacks recreational activities to entertain boisterous kids aside from two pools and a fitness center. Families with younger children might be more comfortable staying at chains like the British Colonial Hilton (242/322-3301) or the Wyndham Nassau Resort (888/627-7282). Other chain hotels that have local resorts in Nassau include the Sheraton Nassau Beach Resort and Comfort Suites Paradise Island. Then there is the always family-friendly Atlantis Resort, a kid-tested resort that includes three hotels on its Paradise Island property, in addition to water slides and other great family activities.

Nassau is also a great family destination because many airlines offer non-stop flights from various U.S. cities. The airlines include JetBlue, American Airlines, Bahamasair, Continental, Delta, Spirit, and US Airways. I flew on JetBlue, which offers five-star service with cheap airfare. Most airlines do not offer snacks any more, but JetBlue offers complimentary drinks and snacks on every flight, and free in-flight movies on some..