A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta

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A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
Kyle McCarthy
10 Aug 2010 - 00:27
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta
A Family Adventure In Puerto Vallarta

From straight to single to same sex lifestyles, Puerto Vallarta's warm welcome for every family traveler makes for a great Mexico Riviera vacation with kids.


Located in the state of Jalisco on Mexico's Pacific coast, the resort area of Puerto Vallarta stretches for 40 miles along Bahia de Banderas. Gold sand beach and sapphire water capped by the verdant Sierra Madre Mountains first lured foreign tourists more than 50 years ago, but this is no worn out, old-fashioned beach resort. Since then, while preserving its natural environment and Mexican architectural style, Puerto Vallarta (PV as it's known) has developed a very active, sophisticated social scene.

Shops, galleries, many fine restaurants, and theatre combine with beach time and eco-adventures to provide a variety of activities rarely seen in one destination. Families with toddlers can can join the locals along the 1.5-kilometer-long, waterfront promenade called Malecon. Day and night you'll see all ages strolling the seaside boardwalk, admiring the professional sand sculptures and performing artists. Adventurers and families with older kids will boat to remote beaches, swim with dolphins or drive overland through the jungle on ATVs.

There's great nightlife too. While some head to the Malecon after a late supper (PV is truly a foodie haven), others will troll the clubs knowing that their kids are enjoying a night out at a resort's kids program. From straight to single to same sex lifestyles, PV's diverse attractions and live-and-let-live acceptance of every family traveler makes for a great vacation with kids.

Malecon's Small Town Charm

Because Puerto Vallarta has long been a magnet for artists and artisans, large outdoor sculptures fill many public spaces, especially along the Malecon. You can take pictures beside the sculptures or have your family portrait sketched by one of the many pay-for-portrait artists who sit by the waterfront. Shop indoors or outside; painted wood figurines and straw hats are sold by vendors who expect some bargaining.

There's fine art too.  All ages will have fun dropping by the galleries and boutiques where Huichol ceramics and beaded ornaments (especially beautiful native Indian crafts) can be seen. Jewelers working in contemporary gold design or etching ancient Indian patterns in silver have found a home in PV, and many shops stay open as late as 10pm.

In addition to the food and souvenir vendors, impressive collection of public arts, and seaside breezes, families can visit the Malecon almost any day of the week and enjoy the free outdoor entertainment that includes concerts, theater, mimes, and the flying dancers of Papantla -- a fantastic Aztec gymnastic pole ritual.

 


Touring Downtown Puerto Vallarta

Between the narrow cobblestone streets of the old town and Zona Romantica (Romantic Zone) is the River Cuale, a stream which runs dry until the summer rainy season. Under the small Cuale River Bridge is an island of shops and outdoor art vendors who set up their wares day and night.  From the main street, look for the marquees of Oscar's and The River Cafe (known for its fine international menu) which bookend this little flea market.

Independence Square, the typical main square, is bordered by a new City Hall (step inside and admire the mural by naif artist Manuel Lepe) and a school. It's also home to the pretty, mid-19th century Church of Guadeloupe, PV's patron saint, whose feast days are celebrated from December 1-12. Opposite the church is El Camapanario, one of the locals' favorite taquerias, where a variety of inexpensive snacks and small plates are served.

On Thursdays and Sunday nights, parents can dance with their kids outside the church, right in the square facing Malecon. Under the moonlight, the Municipal Band performs as local families congregate for an open-air, old-fashioned town hall dance.

Las Caletas & PV Adventures for Little Explorers

Parents can introduce kids to a variety of eco-outings and pint-sized adventure. Starting with your youngest, join a long, day-long Pirates of the Bay cruise aboard our favorite vessel, Jolly Roger, which sails from the PV Marina out across the bay to beautiful Mahahuitas Beach. This "abandonded" tropical island is where preschoolers and Johnny Depp fans can join the captain on a treasure hunt while parents take out sea kayaks, join a snorkel tour or enjoy their margaritas and get some sun. The pirate ship is a wonderful recreation of Columbus' Santa Maria gone wild, with skeletons and cobwebs and planks galore. The rowdy crew of peg-legs and damsels entertain kids the whole way, providing breakfast and a full lunch, as well as snacks, drinks, dance contests and sword play in the price of admission.

The well known tour operator Vallarta Adventures has created a delightful Robinson Crusoe-like getaway at Las Caletas, a natural, eco-themed park with activities for all ages. The beautiful beachfront estate of Las Caletas belonged to John Huston, director of "Night of the Iguana," the Hollywood film that made the sleeepy Mexican port of PV famous. During the course of filming, star Richard Burton began his affair with Elizabeth Taylor and the whole world saw Puerto Vallarta as the key to love. Today, this secluded beach hideaway -- only accessible by sea -- has been developed into a family recreation area. What's left of Huston's original home is a restaurant; nearby, a glass case contains the only mementoes of his residency.

The development at Las Caletas may have been inspired by the eco-thempark at Xcaret, or was it Disney? Hand-hewn pathways course through ficus trees and hanging vines. Several thatch palapas under the palms house restaurants tucked into the hillside. The pristine beach is marred only by lounge chairs and sea kayaks. Guests use stucco and thatch-roof outhouses. For adult relaxation, there's a seaview, clifftop spa with herbal wellness treatments. At night, a rock-carved amphitheatre hosts evening cultural shows with choreography inspired by Cirque du Soleil.

If the sand and sun and beach toys are not enough, there's a zip line geared to kids that adds to the tropical jungle style. The mini-zip line, a junior canopy tour, has been specially designed for ages 6-10 who are carefully fitted with tiny harnesses and helmets. After getting their faces painted in animal patterns, the kids are led through several stages of low, controlled zip lines from tree platform to platform.

Parents who want to extend their kids' fun can pay a premium for activities such as snorkeling with sea lions, scuba diving (for PADI or Naui certificate holders), a beginner scuba lesson for ages 10+, or kayaking and exploring the area on a guided nature walk. During our June visit, there was an infestation of jelly fish, so we never had a chance to swim with the Las Caletas sealion, but that's available too.

 


Puerto Vallarta's Active Eco-Adventures

For older kids who may tire of sun bathing, Puerto Vallarta is a great base for mountain biking, tropical rainforest hikes, and several other adrenaline-filled options. Vallarta Adventures runs several active daytrips, including boat tours by high-speed Zodiac; high altitude zip lines, waterfall rappels, horseback riding, and a multi-sport combination for the restless.

The Vallarta Adventures Dolphin Encounters and trainer-led dolphin swim are very well done, and parents who are reluctant to participate in encounters with animals in captivity may be comforted to know that Vallarta Adventures' programs are monitored by staff from Sea World. In fact, offspring from their successful breeding program are sent to zoos and wildlife facilities around the country.

On dry land, families can sign up for a fun romp along the back roads of Puerto Vallarta on an ATV (all terrain vehicle). The tour operated by Green Zebra uses Israeli Tomcar dune buggy-style vehicles that seat two or four. Licensed drivers over age 16 can take the vehicles out and kids above age 6 are welcomed as pasengers in the four-seaters. Expect a fun, dusty or muddy (depending on season) ride through the rural countryside and along dirt roads and through rivers. Our hour-long drive to a ranch outside town for a delcious lunch of skirt steak and fresh quesadillas was a highlight of the trip. As a bonus, the rancho was just above a crystal clear river where the kids could play, and the ranch's dogs, rabbit and deer were available for petting. 

During the December to April migration season, whale-watching cruises sail the Bay of Banderas as Humpback whales play in the calm waters. The Humpback breaches the waves frequently -- up to once every 40 seconds for several minutes -- so even during our June visit, we were fortunate to see one swimming past our boat.

Families can also enjoy real life eco-adventures at their hotel. Ridley sea turtles make their way back to the shores of Puerto Vallarta from July to December to reproduce. The local marine turtle conservation and protection program sends out professional marine biologists to rope off a certain areas of beach to protect turtle eggs incubating in their nests. Once the hatchlings are ready to return to their natural habitat, hotels invite guests to aid in the release of the newborn turtles so they find their way into the water. 

After Hours in Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta's proximity to Mexico City has made it the resort of choice for affluent families planning weekend getaways. This means there are many options for families who want to see the town after dark.

Families who want a gourmet night out with the kids have a fun, food-worthy choice in El Arrayan. In a very traditional courtyard style house, a large menu of well prepared Mexican dishes is available. After dining, El Arrayan's chef teaches guests how to make mole sauces, ceviche and other simple Mexican dishes.

To top off the night, book tickets to "Fandango," a review of Mexico's cultural heritage that is put on at the local theatre. The wealth of musical styles and folk dances, expertly performed, kept the Mexican audience -- including the youngest children -- enthralled, and attending a performance is a wonderful insight into this country's rich art forms.

Prefer to go out on your own? Parents have many opportunities to take in some of PV's fine restaurants and nightlife. The family welcoming hotels reviewed in FTF's Puerto Vallarta Family Hotels roundup provide private babysitting service and/or supervised children’s clubs that have evening programs. So, even if you're staying at an all-inclusive resort where meals have been prepaid, allow PV's fine dining adventures to lure you out.

The Visit Puerto Vallarta office keeps up with the latest in gourmet eateries, often chosen at the annual International Gourmet Festival each November. Or, you can read my Puerto Vallarta restaurant reviews

Then, depending on your mood, you can end your day with salsa classes, a cocktail or a dance at one of the many bars and lounges in Zona Romantica.