A family travel specialist visits the Eternal City with kids in tow, and shares what he's learned from years of travel planning with his own and other families.

Rome is a city of infinite variety and contrast. History lies about one in a virtual embarrassment of riches. Imperial Roman columns jostle Renaissance palaces, Medieval churches stand alongside 19th century monuments, Fascist boulevards designed by Mussolini cut through street plans laid out by Roman consuls and everywhere the modern city hums with life. Older children will love this contrast and recognize the world famed monuments from the Colosseum to the Vatican; younger children will find a city with parks and puppets, and all children will love a city that loves children. The Italians adore kids; they are never unwelcome in restaurants or museums. Italian waiters will spend as much time flirting with 6 year olds as they will with teenagers and, best of all, you will find that you are more welcome as part of a family than you ever would be as a plain tourist. 

Orientation

Rome is a great city for walking. In most of the Centro Storico - the Historic Center - it is really your only option as cars are banned in the small streets. This is great for pedestrians who would otherwise be avoiding the infamous Italian drivers. The Campo Marzo or Campus Martius, the area bounded by the curve of the Tiber on the west and north, the ancient Forum on the south and the shopping area of the Via del Corso on the east, are made for strolling. The Romans are out at all hours except the heat of the midday when the city shuts down for a well-needed siesta. Areas around the Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and the traditional Ghetto are a good place to start and, incidentally, a good place for a hotel.

The Piazza Navona is a major center of Roman life. It is laid out on an ancient race course and still shows the characteristic oval shape. The square has beautiful fountains, a toy store at either end, cafes surrounding it and hundreds of street artisans from portrait painters to trinket salesmen to gypsy children singing for their supper. Horse drawn carriages line up to take riders. During the Christmas season the square becomes the main market for toys, decorations, ornaments, candies, etc. Your children will love the street life as much as you do. A short few blocks away is the Piazza Rotonda the site of the Pantheon, the most intact building of ancient Rome. This square is also full of life, though of a slightly wilder sort as it is the main hang out for punks and gay men. The Pantheon is not to be missed as the interior, now converted to a church, still is virtually unchanged from 2,000 years ago save for the addition of a few saints and crucifixes.

Rome is a city of fountains, something that always appeals to the youngest children. The one in the Piazza Navona, mentioned already, represents the four great rivers of the world. The Trevi Fountain, famed for the "Three Coins" and "La Dolce Vita" is a fantastic pile of gods and horses and mythical creatures. The fountain, designed by Bernini, literally grows from the buildings behind it. All of the fountains in this old part of the city are fed from an aqueduct built by Agrippa - also the builder of the Pantheon - the son in law of Augustus. The water, known as the Acqua Vergine or Virgin's Water, is considered the best in Rome and absolutely essential for a perfect espresso.

Some of the most wonderful remnants of this Roman city planning are the Fontanella or Little Fountains. Throughout the Centro Storico one can find small pipes emerging from the walls of old buildings with water squirting out of the end. If you put your finger over the end water will squirt from a hole in the top - 2,000 year old drinking fountains and the water is cold and delicious. Other attractive fountains are found in the Piazza di Spagna - this one designed as a small boat, in front of the Vatican and in the Piazza Mattei.

Great Sights

There are many good guidebooks to Rome such as the Michelin Green and the Blue Guide. There is no shortage of things to see, but this summarizes those items of particular interest to children. Classical Rome is concentrated in a fairly small area. The Roman Forum ( 39/66990110) is the center of the ancient world and one of the most interesting places for adults. It is, however, a trifle overwhelming for children. The ruins are all jumbled together and very little is at all complete. It can also be extremely hot in summer and without any shade.

The Colosseum, immediately adjoining, is just the opposite. Children can easily imagine the gladiators and the crowds. The floor of the great stadium is missing and one can see into the chambers where wild animals were held prior to the games. Children can climb the stands and look into the remains of the imperial box - every child knows "Thumbs up, thumbs down." Across the Tiber, at the approach to the Vatican, is the Castle of Sant'Angelo. This huge, cylindrical tower started life as the tomb of the Emperor Hadrian. Later the Popes made it their private retreat. The ages intermingle to produce a great adventure. There are secret passages for the Popes to hide in, huge cutaways to pour oil onto the heads of enemies advancing up the long circular internal ramp, a collection of armor and, surmounting it all, a giant statue of the Archangel Michael with his sword.

The Vatican is its own country, the smallest in the world, a fact that always amazes children. It is really two full days worth of touring and if you can not give it that, then leave out part of it. If you try to see it all in one day you will all regret it. St. Peter's and the square in front are a world in themselves. This church, one of the world's largest, is not just huge, but beautiful. The world's greatest architects and artists created a masterwork for the Popes. Children will be interested in the treasure rooms. These include items such as the cloak of Charlemagne. Among the most lavish treasures are the jewel encrusted reliquaries made to hold splinters from the cross or the bones of saints. The church is filled with what appear to be huge Renaissance paintings that are actually mosaics. These are of such detail that one must approach to a few inches away to see the tiny pieces of glass and stone - the ultimate mosaics.

For the morbid aspect, so beloved to young boys, nothing can match the bodies of Popes, bishops, etc. covered in silver and gold and lying in crystal sarcophagi around the edges of the church. There is a stairway or an elevator that one can take to the main roof. From there one can look down over the shoulders the saints into the great square below. Older children and adults can walk from here to the summit of the dome. The climb is long, but worth it. As you near the top the walls bend in to make the circle. Once at the peak you look out over the whole of Rome and also into the private gardens of the Pope with elaborately clipped hedges, lakes and waterfalls. 

The Vatican Museums are a second day in themselves. Children can be prepared for much of the art in advance by looking at books at home before you go. Go first to the gift stores and let your child pick out post cards that she likes and can then search for in the museums. Here is the Sistine Chapel (39/669883333). The recently cleaned frescoes are stunning. If you saw them before the restoration, the difference wll amaze you. Children are fascinated with the story of Michelangelo's three years on his back painting this labor. The museum - actually several museums -is filled with the papal collections of centuries. Children will like certain highlights such as the Laocoön. One room of the Pio-Clementine museum is dedicated to Greek and Roman statuary of animals. These wonderfully naturalistic portraits of sheep or alligators or pet dogs are a hit with children. While in the museums it is fun to shop or eat in the cafe in hope of getting Vatican money in change. The Vatican accepts Italian money, but also mints its own with portraits of the Pope - a great souvenir among any traveling child's money collection.

Children's Activities

The small center of the city is generally all paved, but most of the famous hills of the city are the site of parks. The Borghese Gardens, on the Pincio Hill, is one of the largest parks in the city. This is the site of the Rome Zoo. Near the Tempio di Esculapio, the ancient god of healing, is a lake with boats for hire, and at the nearby Galoppatoria there are pony rides and horses for hire. The park also holds a marionette theater and a theater of children's movies. At the Pincio end of the park in the Viale dell Orlogiere is a water clock driven by a small waterfall. There is also a small merry-go-round. To finish off your afternoon, visit the Casina Valadieri, a palace of ice cream specializing in giant concoctions of cream and syrup and fruit. They also have that most wonderful of Italian ice cream deserts - the Tartuffo, of which, more later. On the far side of the river is the Janiculum Hill or Giancolo, the only one of the Seven Hills located west of the Tiber. This park has beautiful gardens, Punch and Judy shows, a carousel and pony rides on weekends. Nearby is the Villa Doria Pamphilli, an ancient villa with beautiful gardens, very popular with Roman families. Immediately adjacent is the Villa Sciarra - "House of the Sow" - a nymph's sanctuary in Roman times, now adorned with mythological statues.

Italy is the land of puppets called puppi in Italian. Remember this is the culture that created Pinocchio and Punchinello the source for Judy's Punch. Generally the season is in summer for the outdoor presentations and during the winter and spring for indoor ones. Rome has many puppet theaters. At the Teatro dei Satiri (06/8553485) near the Campo dei Fiori performances are weekday mornings and Saturdays.Teatro Mongiovino degli Accettella (06/5199405) is one of the most popular in the city and Il Nuova Opera dei Burattini (06/5882034) is located in Trastevere, the area just west of the river. This area is really the heart of puppetry and one can find stores and markets bursting with hundreds of different varieties. Ask your hotel desk clerk or concierge for help with times and locations of shows.

One of the least likely ideas for a children's activity must be opera, but here in the land of its birth they have even figured out a way to make that accessible. The Baths of Caracalla are the vast ruins of luxurious Roman public baths. The shells of great arches 100 feet high remain. During the summer they become the scene of the world's largest stage. The show is very informal and children are everywhere so if yours make noise or get bored they will have lots of company. The ultimate production is of "Aida" which is produced with hundreds of chorus, a four horse chariot that charges onto the stage at full gallop, a camel and an elephant.

Rome is a city of many hidden wonders. One that is sure to appeal to children is the Monster House, located on the via Gregoriana just at the top of the Spanish Steps. This 16th Century house is built to resemble the face of a demon. The doorway is its gaping mouth and the windows are the eyes. 

Day Trips from Rome

For those with a car, one of the best short outings is to proceed southward on the Via Appia Antica. This greatest of the Roman roads also has a modern counterpart, but make sure to take the Antica or "old" road. Roman social climbers sought to elevate themselves in status by creating temples of death. The old Patrician class never flaunted their power, but the merchants and bankers loved to - like nouveau riche of any era. They built huge mausoleums in gleaming marble, draped in statues of weeping gods, proclaiming their semi-divine accomplishments in the world of money (the similarities between the Romans and the present by no means end here). On a moonlit night the white monuments, half crumbled yet still beautifully preserved are a stunning sight. The Appian Way is also the location of several Catacombs. These are large caves used by the ancient Christians for burials. As in 17th Century Paris or modern Mexico, this often meant simply placing the corpses in a large space where they were allowed to dry out. Some of the catacombs were supposedly used by Christians to hide during the periods of persecution. Many of them have dwellings underground and murals and mosaics. Curators will gladly show one bones and artifacts from the era. These are just gruesome enough to appeal to the dark side of children without being horrible enough to offend their elders or frighten the wee ones.

Lake at Villa d'Este

East of the city lies a complex of ruins, gardens and villas centered on the town of Tivoli. Perhaps the greatest is the Villa Adriana or Hadrian's Villa built in the Second Century. This sophisticated Emperor built a pleasure palace for himself to escape the heat of the city. Gardens, sports facilities, lakes surrounded by beautiful statuary, and major parts of the palace all remain. This is a beautiful setting. Just beyond is the Renaissance Villa d'Este. The villa itself is in terrible shape, but the gardens are a marvel. Lakes, rivers, cascades, waterfalls, and literally hundreds of fountains fill the gardens. Some shoot fifty or more feet into the air. Whole hillsides are lined with showers of sparkling water. In the summer all is lit by colored lights every evening. And perhaps most amazing, it is all run only by gravity. No pumps drive the water, just the force imparted by the fall from a distance in great aqueducts. This is a wonderful day outing for a picnic or a luncheon as Tivoli has many fine restaurants that are very popular with Italians.

Italian Cuisine

Italy is one of the food capitals of the world and, unlike France, it is all food that is easy on kids. Most American children already love pasta. Italian pastas are often different than the American versions of the same name. Spaghetti sauces are rarely the thick, ketchupy variety that we are familiar with and this can cause an initial reluctance on the part of some children, but generally the excellent quality and flavor of the original will eventually win over the most finicky eaters.

There are over a hundred versions of pasta found in Italy. Most of the different kinds have names that refer to their shapes: farfalle, "butterflies"; linguine, "little tongues"; rotilli, "wheels"; conchiglie, "shells", and many other evocative names. "Macaroni & Cheese" à la Kraft is, of course, unheard of in Italy, but many other varieties can be found. Penne - rather like a large straight macaroni - is very popular, most commonly with a tomato sauce. Tortellini and their larger counterpart, tortelloni, those delicious filled pastas are found everywhere, often with cream sauces.

Pizza, which twenty years ago was only found in Naples, has conquered Italy as thoroughly as it has the rest of the world. The Italian pizza is far different than the American standard. Crusts are generally very thin and crispy. The sauce is often barely stewed tomatoes with a small amount of cheese - ideally the fresh buffalo mozzarella made from the milk of water buffalos. It is generally cooked in an extremely hot, wood-burning oven and often comes to the table five minutes after ordering and is absolutely delicious. This makes it a great hors d'oeuvre, but also a quick way to get dinner to a hungry and impatient child.

In fact, in informal restaurants the food often appears as it is cooked rather than course by course. Sometimes one person will get their pizza 10 minutes before anyone else is served - this is the time to dig in and not wait for the formality of all eating at the same time or people will have cold plates. The most common form of pizza is "Margherita," which is a plain cheese pizza. Pizza Pepperoni is covered with roasted peppers and is not the popular sausage so loved by American pizza eaters, but totally unknown in Italy. Quatro stagione or "four seasons" is like a combination pizza with artichoke hearts, etc. Often pizza is sold out of street side booths and this is generally more like that with which we are familiar.

Italian dining comes in many varieties. Ristorante are the most formal with individual tables, set menus, limited hours - dinner is generally eaten far later than in America - and usually a higher price range.

Trattoria are far more casual. They are often large with many items on the menu, but the feel is more flexible, the prices are lower, and the noise level is higher. These are the most popular eating establishments with Italians and you can generally spot the best and cheapest by the size and age of the crowd.

Osteria are more casual still and are often little more than stand-up bars for quick snacks such as pannini (sandwiches). A note of caution: if there is a bar and also small tables, be aware that food or drink at the tables generally cost about double that eaten at the bar. Finally, there are the salumeria or delicatessens. These have wonderful prepared foods, sausages, cheeses, salads, etc. They are indispensable for snacks and picnics and are universally of a quality that we would expect to find only in high priced "gourmet" stores.

Italian desserts are generally a little odd for children. Candied fruits, almond paste and liqueurs are standard in most of them and I have never found a child who likes any of them. The one truly delightful exception is gelato or ice cream. The Italians make their ice creams with a wonderfully high cream content that might bother our cholesterol, but enchants our palates. Perhaps the ultimate ice cream dessert is tartuffo or "truffle". Ice cream is wrapped in a coating of rich chocolate, often garnished with chocolate sauce and sprinkled with cocoa powder. Every restaurant has their own variation of this treat and we have seen children happily eat their way from one end of Italy to the other sampling the regional variations.

Another popular Italian treat is granita. In America this generally refers to a glorified sherbet, but in Italy it is something more like a liquid snow cone. Usually made with a combination of fresh fruits, juices and syrups, they are half-frozen into a slurry and served in a cup. They are found in stands on many street corners and are the best possible refresher for a hot day.

Favorite Family Dining

Rome is filled with excellent eating and we will just give a few suggestions. The Piazza Navona is a good place to start. The square is surrounded both by restaurants and trattoria. On the west side is the restaurant Tre Scalini (06/7096309). It has outdoor tables overlooking the life of the square and it prides itself on its tartuffo. Exiting the east side of the square is an excellent trattoria. Eastward it is a walk of three short blocks to the Pantheon.

Walk south three blocks to Sant' Eustachio (06/6861309), reputedly the home of the best espresso and cappuccino - obviously a point of considerable debate in a town like Rome. All aspects of a fine meal and a nice evening walk to boot!

Cross the river to Trast, everywhere small trattoria spill into every street and the atmosphere of a working class Roman neighborhood is alive. Finally, as the parent of a child who is being good, trying strange and new things without complaint, but feeling a little disconcerted by all this foreignness, you may just feel the need to visit McDonald's.

Nearby is the first outpost of American cultural imperialism allowed in this city (now there are several more) - in the Piazza di Spagna just at the bottom of the Spanish Steps, about a hundred yards from where Shelley breathed his last. This modified Mac includes an excellent antipasto bar and stylish Armani-clad Italians, but you can also get il famosissimo Big Mac. The things we do for love.

Rome Accommodation Ideas

Rome has literally hundreds of hotels from ones of great luxury to simple pensiones. The latter term generally refers to small hotels without the full amenities of a restaurant or televisions or telephones in the room. Small pensiones often take no reservations in advance and can therefore be a rather iffy way to travel with a family in tow. Roman hotels are usually flexible with their accommodations and will gladly bring in extra beds or cribs - commonly called "cots" in Europe - if the room has sufficient space.

An interesting and extremely economical housing option in Rome is in a monastery or convent. Naturally, Rome is a city full of pilgrims to its many Catholic shrines. Quite a few of the religious orders take in guests both as a way to extend their incomes and as an act of hospitality. Most are, of course, located in the area of the Vatican which is in itself a major destination and only a short walk from the Classical and Renaissance heart of the city. Accommodations are basic, but very clean and comfortable and very reasonably priced. Most include meals for a small fee. The food is good, served in large amounts and, in a traditional Italian manner, includes the largest meal at mid-day.

Some of the possibilities are: the Suore ("Sisters") Fransiscana dell' Atonement on Via Monte del Gallo, 105, (06/630782: and the Casa D'Accoglienta S. Spirito on Borgo S. Spirito, (06/6861076). A direct telephone call is the best approach. The hosts are very welcoming to families and not in the least bit proselytizing toward non-Catholics.