A Family Travel Specialist offers ideas for touring, dining and lodging in New Mexico's cultural center.

Santa Fe, New Mexico is a fascinating town for both adults and children. It provides a unique blend of country and culture, casual and sophisticated. The high Southwestern setting makes for beautiful landscapes with outdoor activities from hiking to riding to river rafting and skiing. The altitude -- approximately 7,000 feet -- means that Santa Fe is free of the oppressive heat of much of Arizona and Texas, its neighbors. On the other hand, the altitude makes it a ski destination in winter rather than an escape from the cold.

Santa Fe's history gives it a special quality that distinguishes it from most of the rest of the country. It is the second oldest city in the United States. It was founded just after 1600 by the followers of Coronado in their search for the Seven Cities of Gold. These early Spanish conquistadores settled the area 11 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. They found the valley of the Rio Grande to be already occupied by one of the most advanced groups of Native Americans. The Pueblo people had lived in the valley for hundreds of years as farmers. They tended crops such as beans, corn, tomatoes and the peppers that are still an essential part of the local cuisine. They lived in small cities unlike those found anywhere else in the United States.

After the US acquired the region as a result of the Mexican War, Americans began to flood the area led by the famous trapper Kit Carson. This blend of three peoples - Native Americans, Hispanics and Anglos - has created a unique cultural milieu. In this era when the idea of multi-culturalism is spreading in America, one can see an example of the best of the concept. Though the area has not been free of racial and class conflicts -- this is the real world, after all -- the three peoples have blended in a way to produce a special style of life. The architecture, the cuisine, the art - all reflect a mixture of three different backgrounds. What is so special is the combination that makes it hard to extract the varied threads from the tapestry of "Santa Fe style." It provides a hopeful note for the rest of the country and points up the possibility of a broader American culture that is far richer than the narrow definition of WASP hegemony.

Orientation

The city is the center of any exploration of the area. Though it is spread out across the desert for 10 miles or so, the focus for any tourist is the historic area around the Plaza. This square, which harks back to the zocalo in the center of every Mexican town, is the heart of the city and was the end point of the pioneer's Santa Fe Trail. Today it is very touristy and is surrounded by shops. Many are full of typical Southwest products while others are standards such as Woolworths or Haagen-Dazs.

On the other hand, the focus of the Plaza is the Palace of the Governors. This is the oldest government building in the United States, dating back to the original founding in the early 17th Century. The building is constructed of adobe, as are all of the older structures, with walls over a foot thick. On the broad porch in front of the Palace (pictured at left), Native American craftspeople sell their wares. The men and women are licensed, which ensures that the goods are produced by traditional means. Native men and women sell the beautiful pots, silver and turquoise jewelry, and other crafts and clothing. Children are as interested as adults in this interplay with the creators of these beautiful goods.

The plaza is the center of town and is the focus of several of the important annual events. In August it is the site of the Indian Market (505/983-5220), the largest collection of Native goods on the continent. In September it is the location of the Fiesta de Santa Fe where people burn the giant statue of Zozobra, representing the worries of the coming winter, in a festival of fireworks and torches. Finally, on Christmas Eve the plaza is filled with bonfires - luminarias - and candle-filled paper bags - farolitos.

Center of the Arts

Santa Fe is filled with museums and galleries as it is a world-wide center of art. Though much of the art will not appeal to children there are many museums that will. Immediately adjacent to the plaza is the Museum of Fine Arts (505/476-5072). This beautiful building is copied from the style of the Mission churches at Chimayo and Taos. The museum has an extensive collection of Georgia O'Keefe's work which older children will like.

Heading southeast from town along the Old Pecos Trail one comes first to the Santa Fe Children's Museum (505/989-7506). This is a wonderful collection of science, art, natural history, animals and even an artificial rock wall for climbing. On Saturdays and selected weekdays there are artists in residence and scientists for children to interact with. Further out along the Pecos is the city's museum complex.

The Museum of International Folk Art (505/476-1200) is mainly a gigantic collection of toys from throughout the world. There are also exhibits of local crafts such as furniture and tin work characteristic of the area. Next door the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture (505/476-1250) has a wonderful collection of pottery and jewelry, both modern and ancient. In addition there is a Discover Center where children can engage in all sorts of hands-on activities.

Finally, in one of the more unlikely cultural events for children, there is the Santa Fe Opera. The modern, open-air theater is located just north of town. The opera season is during the summer, and children get to watch the dress rehearsals- adults are not allowed in without kids. This means that the atmosphere is casual, and noisy children won't interrupt any serious listeners, plus the rates are reduced. The beautiful setting provides a nearly painless introduction to one of the more difficult cultural forms.

Festivals

If you are lucky enough to be in Santa Fe during the Christmas season, you will get to experience a celebration far different than that of the more Anglo parts of the United States. The high mountain air is cold and clear. The entire town sets itself afire. Bonfires, torches and farolitos burn throughout the city. Canyon Road, where most of the city's art galleries are concentrated, becomes a string of fires for several miles. Hundreds of thousands of farolitos pick out every wall and house; bonfires are lit every few hundred feet; thousands of people fill the streets to see the show and everyone is friendly with carols and songs at every turn. This is a wonderful way to feel the wintry nights and the beautiful Southwest setting. Most of the Indian Pueblos have dances during this season. These combine Christian and native elements celebrating the harvest, the hunt and the season. Many dances run on a schedule that can be "flexible" so try to check in advance to see if they are really happening on the scheduled day and time.

Other Sites and Sports

Modern history has produced some interesting sights also. North of Santa Fe, on the way to Bandelier, is Los Alamos. This is the location of the Manhattan Project where the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki were developed. They were not tested here - that dubious honor goes to White Sands in the southern part of the state. This small town was created by the military and the laboratory still functions, though it is trying to find a new role for itself in the post-Cold War world. There is a museum - the Bradbury Science Museum (505/667-4444) - with all sorts of hands-on activities. This is a chilling, but important spot.

New Mexico is a very rural state so there are a lot of sport and outdoor activities also. Being the West, horseback riding is everywhere. The Bishop's Lodge (505/983-6377) just north of town is a great resort with rides for all ages. Other stables where one can rent horses include Broken Saddle Riding Company in Cerillos (505/424-7774). Further afield, in Taos, the Taos Indian Horse Ranch Company (800/659-3210) arranges rides in the backcountry of the pueblo and in the winter they have sleigh rides. Skiing is available at the Santa Fe Ski Area (508/982-4429) where lessons are available for 3 to 9 year olds. Taos has it's own ski area with all of the usual amenities. Great Southwest Adventures (505/455-2700) is a tour company that focuses on the outdoors, with day and evening hiking, backpacking, and cultural trips.

Day Trips: Spanish & Indian Culture

The countryside around Santa Fe holds areas that are still relatively untouched by tourism. The different cultures mix in town, but outside there are still strong distinctions between Hispanic, Native American and Anglo culture.

Most of the Indian people of the Rio Grande valley are Pueblos. They speak related languages though each town or pueblo has its own dialect. Unlike most native people in America the Pueblos have been able to retain their historic lands. There were conflicts in the early days, including the Pueblo Revolt when most of the Spanish settlers were killed or driven out. Today most Pueblos live in towns established about 400 years ago by their ancestors moving east from what is now Arizona. Previously they lived in the cliff dwellings that line the plateau at the western side of the valley. Some, such as the Indians of Santa Clara Pueblo can identify which cliff dwellings belonged to their progenitors. This is unique in a country where most of the native peoples lost their best lands to more aggressive Whites.

There are many pueblos occupied today that one can visit, though you must retain a proper respect for the privacy and pride of the people. Taos Pueblo (505/758-1028) is the most famous. Located about 50 miles north of Santa Fe, it is the oldest occupied structure on the continent. The two main buildings are over 500 years old. Their distinctive style is the source for much of the region's architecture. You must pay a fee to enter and to take pictures, which has allowed the Taos people to maintain a relatively high standard of living for Indian peoples. Many of the houses have become shops and your children will love interacting with the residents. Often people cook native food for sale. Fry-bread, an ancient food eaten with honey, is sure to please. The children will love it.

Many of the other pueblos near Santa Fe are open to visitors. They are extremely poor, but have organized themselves into a political band that gives them some power in the region. Many of the Pueblos are great potters and in the villages you can visit the workshops. Each town has its own distinctive style of pottery using different colors, motifs and shapes of pot. They are generally quite expensive, but the artists are usually willing to explain their techniques which produce remarkably sophisticated art with very basic methods.

Some of the pueblos to visit include: Santa Clara Pueblo where the people know and control the site of their ancestors' cliff dwellings at Puye. This is the home of Robert Naranjo, a master potter of exceptional skill. San Ildefonso Pueblo is where Maria Martinez rediscovered the art of producing black pottery earlier this century. This pueblo contains a beautiful church only a few yards from the sacred kiva where the residents still worship. The Black Mesa is sacred to local people and where the Pueblos held out against the Spanish conquest rises just north of town. Cochiti Pueblo (505/465-2244) is south of Santa Fe and is the source for the ubiquitous "story teller" ceramics and many-colored pots.

Ancient Indian dwellings are located throughout the area and will fascinate children. Bandelier Monument (505/672-3861), just beyond Los Alamos, is a national treasure. People lived in this large center from about 1100 to 1500 AD. There is a nice, easy walk through the canyon. First one encounters the remains of a circular "apartment" that held several hundred people. If you have seen Taos first, your children should have no problem imagining it when it was complete.

Above and beyond this building is over a mile of ruins stretched along the cliffs. You can walk among them, climb ladders into the rooms, see the art remaining on the walls, and generally get an excellent feel for the nature of life for these people. If you continue to the end of the valley - about a mile - you will reach a cliff dwelling high above the floor in a lofty niche. Older children can climb up several ladders totaling over 150 feet to inspect this very intact ruin. It is beautiful and a lot of fun.

Just north of Bandelier is Puye. These cliff dwellings are still controlled by the Santa Clara pueblo - their descendants. The ruins are quite complete and one of the more interesting elements are the ancient "stairways". The rock is very soft and over the course of hundreds of years the residents wore tracks into the cliffs. You can still use them today and children will be delighted with scaling the cliff face. On top of the mesa lie the ruins of a city. You can drive up to them or simply go straight up the stairs. This small town with its ceremonial plaza and rebuilt kiva still speaks to us today.

Three hundred years ago the Spanish residents filled the area and created their own unique world. When you return to Santa Fe from Taos take the "High Road". This back route will lead you through many small and untouched towns. The people still speak a variety of Spanish from the 17th Century and are considered a cultural treasure by the people of Spain. Towns such as Truchas or Trampas contain ancient missions of adobe. The town of Chimayo is a center for weaving and miracles. The shrine in town is considered to be a source of miraculous cures. The Ortega family weaving shop which produces beautiful rugs and blankets has been in the same family for over 10 generations. Española, on the main road, is a farming center. In the fall they hold an apple and chile festival. The fields around produce the best chiles - flaming red and mildly hot. They are supposedly the same variety grown by the Pueblos when the Spanish first arrived. This is a source for ristras, the strings of dried chiles that provide characteristic decoration everywhere.

Accommodations

Santa Fe has two distinct areas where most hotels are located - near the Plaza and along Cerrillos Road. The Plaza area has some of the more historic and picturesque housing, but also the more expensive. The Posada de Santa Fe (505/986-0000) has one and two bedroom units that hold a family in a beautiful adobe traditional setting just blocks from the Plaza. There are several condominium complexes near the historic center. Fort Marcy Compound and Pueblo Bonito (505/984-8001) have multi-bedroom units (Fort Marcy has a swimming pool; Pueblo Bonito has a hot tub). Both are several blocks north of the Plaza and have all the amenities of apartments.

Cerrillos Road is the main street of southern Santa Fe and is lined with motels from every chain and of every possible quality. The prices are better than those near the historic center, but the area also lacks the special quality that one thinks of as Santa Fe. The El Rey Motel (800/521-1349) and the Travelodge (505/982-5551) of Santa Fe are two of the nicest with swimming pools, air conditioning and nearby restaurants.

To the North of town are two excellent guest ranches. The Bishop's Lodge is only 3 miles north. This is an elegant Southwestern resort with all the extras - riding, swimming pool, tennis courts. In summer there is a full children's program of activities. Certain packages include meals with the room rate. Several miles to the north is the Rancho Encantado (505/758-9790). This place is a little more "ranchy", a little more "Southwest" with most housing in separate adobe units. It emphasizes the horseback side of ranch life, but has every other consideration also. Both ranches are quite expensive, but are really special for families.

Our first choice for an excellent guidebook to the entire area is "Journey to the High Southwest, A Traveler's Guide" by Robert L. Casey.

Santa Fe Dining

Southwest cuisine is one of the definite draws of the area. Like the architecture and so much else, it is a fusion of the styles of different cultures. It resembles the Mexican food with which Californians are so familiar, but with varied elements. The essential Native American ingredients of corn, beans, tomatoes and, especially, ristras (strings of peppers) provide the backbone.

Wheat products from the Northern Europeans are much more used than South of the border. Sopapillas and their related Native American product, Indian fry bread, are a favorite snack or first course. Small squares of dough are deep-fried until they puff up like hollow cushions and are then eaten with honey, cinnamon sugar or other toppings. Children are sure to love them. Corn rarely appears as tortillas, but is more commonly found as posole. This relative of grits consists of large kernels of cracked corn, often served in a broth. Santa Fe is also the source of blue corn, which has become such a rage among the food groupies of the country. Peppers, both dried as chili powder or fresh, appear in many foods. Not usually as hot as the extremes of Mexican cooking, they can still pack quite a punch.

The town has an abundance of good restaurants. In the area of the plaza is the hotel La Fonda. This pseudo-mission style building has a dining room in a covered courtyard. The food is so-so, but the beautifully painted setting will appeal to children. On Palace Avenue just off the plaza is the Casa Sena Cantina (505/988-9232). This restaurant has two different divisions; the Cantina is casual and economical with a fun approach. All the waiters are musical actors and they perform throughout the meal. Periodically your waiter or waitress will disappear to return as the "Phantom of the Opera" or Nellie Forbush from "South Pacific." This is a lot of fun and the singing and food are both quite good.

A little further out from the plaza are some more adult choices: the Coyote Cafe (505/983-1615) on Water Street and, our own personal choice for best restaurant, Santacafe (505/984-1788) on Washington Ave. The latter is a unique combination of Asian and Southwest cuisines that sounds strange, but works wonderfully. West of the Plaza, in the Guadalupe area, are several pleasant and popular restaurants that would all be fine for families. The Guadalupe Cafe (505/982-9762), for Mexican food, and the Zia Diner (505/988-7008) for standard American fare, are both on Guadalupe St. Still on Guadalupe, but across the railroad tracks, is Tomasita's Santa Fe Station (505/983-5721). This is a large, friendly place, full of families and with supposedly the best Chile relleños and sopapillas in town. Be prepared for a wait.

Outside of town there are some nice spots. In Chimayo, north of town, is the venerable Rancho de Chimayo (505/351-4444). The food is rather pedestrian so that it will not intimidate children, but the beautiful setting in an old farmhouse with ristras of bright red chiles is charming. This is an excellent location for a meal on the way to or from Taos. Just north of Albuquerque is a good place to stop on your way to or from the airport. In the small town of Corrales, just west of the highway is the Rancho de Corrales (505/897-3131) We have had some of our best meals here and our children are unanimous that the baskets of warm sopapillas that you are supplied with were the best they ate in New Mexico.