Rhode Island's capital rewards visitors of all ages with its thriving art scene, abundant cuisine, and outdoor fun.

It seems lately that every time I open a travel or in-flight magazine, there’s something about Providence, Rhode Island--whether it’s a story about the city’s revitalization efforts along the waterfront or mention of the latest jewel of a restaurant. So when the opportunity arose to drive up the East Coast and check out “Renaissance City” for a long weekend with my 13 year-old Maddy, I was eager to see what the hullabaloo is all about.

One of the best ways to get acquainted with 17-square-mile Providence is on foot, and beautiful Waterplace Park, four acres surrounding a tidal basin in the heart of downtown, is a great place to start. With an amphitheater, landscaped terraces, boat landings and pedestrian walkways along the river, it is one of those glorious urban settings filled with walkers, joggers, bikers and the occasional sketch artist. Several Venice-inspired bridges connect downtown Providence to the city’s historic East Side, and even gondola rides are offered during summer months. An art festival, concert or some other cultural event always seems to be going on in the Park.

It is the setting for Waterfire from May to October, a spectacle where nearly 100 bonfires are lit just above the water’s surface, accompanied by classical and world music, creating a magical backdrop for strolling, dining or just hanging out.

Nearby is the Bank of America Skating Center (401/331-5544), an ice skating rink twice the size of Rockefeller Center’s rink in New York. On our wintry December visit, Maddy and I strapped on some of the nicest rental skates I’ve ever seen and had a blast trying to perfect our Triple Lutz (not really) when we weren’t clumsily “dancing” to the tunes blared over the speakers. It's open until 10pm nightly, and when not covered in ice, the Center is a venue for concerts and other events.

Just up the street is Providence Place (401/270-1017), an impressive mall (even to these jaded Washington shoppers) that also is home to the Feinstein IMAX Theater (401/453-IMAX). The Feinstein shows typical documentary type IMAX features on a six-story screen as well as reformatted Hollywood blockbusters. Because it was the holiday season, we took in The Polar Express for a second time. In 3D on the gigantic IMAX screen we felt like we actually were on that train careening down steep, snowy tracks headed for the North Pole!

Providence was founded in 1636 as a safe haven for “free-thinkers” and religious liberty advocates. This progressive town still embraces independent thinking and is home to several distinguished academic institutions, including Brown University, the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) and the famed culinary institute, Johnson & Wales University. Soak it all in by strolling funky Thayer Street at the edge of Brown University. College kids mingle among the vintage boutiques, book and music stores, ethnic eateries, coffee and teahouses, internet cafes and the old Avon Theater (401/421-AVON) that shows indie flicks.

Providence is a haven for artists and entertainers and claims the largest number of working artists in the country. The Arts and Entertainment District features an eclectic mix of galleries, theaters and museums. The RISD Museum of Art (401/454-6500) has a huge costume collection that kids adore, as well as Egyptian mummies and decorative arts from furniture to silver. Free workshops, performances and gallery tours for families are offered on the last Saturday of each month. The Tony award-winning Trinity Repertory Company (401/351-4242) is here, as well as the Providence Black Repertory (401/351-0353).

Another accolade for Providence: There are more degreed chefs and more restaurants per capita than any other city in the U.S. Want to know if there really was a Fanny Farmer or Betty Crocker? Curious what Abe Lincoln served for dinner? Head over to The Culinary Archives & Museum (401/598-2805) at Johnson & Wales University, sometimes referred to as "The Smithsonian of the Culinary and Hospitality Industry." This not-to-be-missed museum contains more than a half million culinary artifacts, including some gadgets that you’ll remember from mom’s kitchen and a collection of cookbooks dating back to the 1500s.

Fascinating exhibits range from food served at the White House throughout history (“The First Stomachs”) to the history behind the New England Country Tavern to the birth of American cuisine (the story behind the first potato chip, breakfast cereal, hamburger and Caesar salad). Maddy especially enjoyed the interactive displays, such as the restoration of the 1926 lunch car, the Ever Ready Diner. She had fun donning an apron and cap, taking my order and serving me rubber eggs at the Little Chef Diner (complete with a hilarious list of diner slang posted on the wall).

Family Dining & A Welcoming Hotel

Providence legitimately lays claim as one of the nation's premier places to eat. One of the best neighborhoods to research this claim is Federal Hill, Providence’s own Little Italy. You will know you’re there when you see the red, white and green stripe down Atwells Avenue and the huge pinecone, an Italian symbol of abundance and quality, hanging from an arch above the street. Federal Hill truly rivals Baltimore’s Little Italy, Boston’s North End and the ever-diminishing Little Italy in Manhattan. And best of all, it’s less touristy. In warmer weather, many of the restaurants offer outdoor seating. In addition to the numerous restaurants lining the avenue, you will see Italian grocers, pastry shops, gelato and even hardware stores.

Maddy and I had dinner one night at Angelo’s Civita Farnese (401/621-8171), a lively, family-run, no-nonsense Italian restaurant that has been around since 1924 when it originated as an eating club. It’s a Providence institution where food is basic and prices are cheap. Kids love the overhead model train; adults love the rich history of the place (i.e., during Prohibition, wine was served surreptitiously in coffee cups). Seating is family-style, so if it’s busy and your family is small, be prepared to share a table. Skip dessert and head around the corner to Pastiche (401/861-5190), a cozy pastry shop that packs them in for outrageously sinful desserts. Maddy and I can vouch for the decadent banana cream pie! If you feel like taking home a taste of Federal Hill, Ocean State Chocolates (888/276-2022) hand dips some of Rhode Island’s finest truffles and will gladly ship.

Beyond Federal Hill, consider lunch or dinner at Parkside Rotisserie and Bar (401/331-0003), conveniently located at the start of the Waterfire walk. We enjoyed this sophisticated but casual bistro for dinner one evening. Although there is no children's menu, the staff is very accommodating to kids. There’s even butcher paper on the tables for doodling while parents dine at a more leisurely pace. We recommend the rotisserie dishes such as Long Island Duck or Spicy Lemon and Cashew Roasted Chicken, but Parkside turns out some innovative salads and pasta dishes, as well.

The centrally located Providence Marriott (800/937-7768) close to the State Capitol building was a fine home base for exploring the city. Modern with spacious rooms, it is a step above your average Marriott. There is a sizable indoor heated pool and the ubiquitous but welcome Starbucks in the lobby for those that don’t have the time or stomach for big hearty breakfasts offered in the Bluefin Grille. The hotel even offers a complimentary rotating daily activity such as a wine tasting, a martini mixing class and for the younger set a sand art craft or a chocolate fountain. Rates start at $159/N for a standard guest room, and several family packages are available, so be sure to ask.

For families looking for a great weekend getaway, Providence won’t disappoint. With its manageable size and vibrant arts and culinary scene, Maddy and I can assure you that it won’t take long to see what the hullabaloo is all about.