A single mom delights in sharing Rome (her favorite city) and lots of gelato with her young son, and introducing the wonders of history to an open mind.

Last summer, I promised my son a three-scoop gelato per day if he’d be so kind as to accompany me to Rome. With an offer I knew he’d never resist, we were off to spend our summer vacation in Rome, a city so dear to me that I stayed for five years after a study abroad stint, simply unable to pack my bags and leave. Let’s put it this way -- I even went so far as to become an Italian instructor. What a gift it was to finally introduce my -year-old son, Daniel, to all the sights and sunsets that refused to stop taking my breath away.

Daniel soaked Rome in like a sponge, the way it’s meant to be enjoyed. I kept our days open to chance and we spent most of our time wandering to our hearts’ content, stopping every once in a while to splash our hands in a fountain, to sip a lemon soda in a glorious piazza, and, of course, to choose from the colorful display in our favorite gelateria! If my son got to have a tri-flavored gelato every day, well then so did I... if only to keep him company.

Roman Culture for Kiddos

Italians welcome children with open arms. People won’t glare at you if your child throws a Frisbee-sized plastic UFO up in the air in the middle of a fancy piazza-side restaurant. They will smile and say “Ciao, Bello!” and give him a vanilla pannacotta or a hunk of parmigiano and a sliced pear. This was especially convenient for a single mom like me because I wanted to enjoy nicer restaurants, and I wasn’t going to let the fact that my date was a rambunctious 5-year-old stop me.

Instead, people warmed up to us and I delighted in the gracious honor that Italians have for the forever-loved Mamma. People were eager to talk to us, eager to lend a hand and happy to share a smile. Finally, I was referred to as signora and not the signorina I had been as a younger woman, and I relished the respect that came with my new title.

Stay Awhile

I knew that I would go bonkers staying in a tiny hotel room with a small child. By renting a small apartment, we saved enormous amounts of money and had a chance to live like real Italians for the three weeks that we were in Italy. I booked our studio online at Flat in Rome and we paid €770 for a two-star studio for three weeks. This was quite a bargain if you compare it to even the cheapest of pensiones.

Our studio was basic -- neat and comfortable, with a Euro-style kitchen, a wooden dining table, two twin beds, and, in the hallway, a washing machine (don’t know how I would have managed without that). We saved money by having breakfast at our home away from home and keeping a supply of yogurt and fruit for post-siesta snacks to keep our hunger at bay until dinner (since most restaurants don’t open until 8 or 9pm).

Located in the off-the-beaten-path neighborhood of Testaccio, we enjoyed wandering the tourist-free streets and shopping at the local outdoor market square where, I guarantee, the fruits, vegetables, cheese, fresh pasta and pastries are the best in all of Rome. I made sure to schedule in some neighborhood down time every day, and Daniel enjoyed eating pizza-by-the-slice and playing in the little park at the center of the Piazza di Testaccio. What a treat to watch him play happily with the other children (not making much note of the fact that they spoke different languages) as I sipped a cool iced tea at the park-side café! Before you go, teach yourself and your kids a few useful phrases. He knew how to ask the other children "Come ti chiami?” and “Come stai?” and he impressed even himself with his efforts. Plus, no one can resist a cute kid trying his very best to say a perfect "grazie."

Don’t Miss

On our second day, we stepped back into the past via the Rome Time Elevator (Via dei SS. Apostoli, 20; 39-06-97746243). This 45-minute panoramic movie highlights Roman history with special effects (think moving seats and steam). I loved the way it summed up Roman history for kids and set the stage for 1,000 questions (Mom, why did Nero laugh when the city was burning down?) that could be explored and answered during the rest of our stay.

An entire day should be devoted to the Via Appia Antica. The catacombs of San Callisto, a series of ancient underground cemeteries used by the Christian and the Jewish communities, both spooked and amazed us. We meandered down the Via Appia Antica, stopping for panini at the Bar Appia Antica (on the corner of Via Cecilia Metella and Via Appia Antica; 338-3465440). To get there, take the metro or bus to Piramide, then take the bumbling bus 118 on to the Catacombs of St. Callisto. Be on the lookout for Dante (usually found near the entrance to the Circus of Maxentius), he's the man that sets up a small table selling handmade flute-like instruments for calling sheep, an inexpensive, musical souvenir.

The Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, located in central Rome at the Largo di Torre Argentina (corner of Via Florida and Via Arenula) on the site of the oldest temples in Rome (400-300 BC), is the perfect spot for pet-lovers. The sanctuary provides food and medical care to the many feline inhabitants of Rome. The kindly volunteers let us pet the cats and introduced us to their plight. Leave a donation or purchase a kitschy kitten item in their gift shop to help them with their cause. You can even adopt a Roman cat a distanza before your visit.

The Castel Sant’Angelo (Lungotevere Castello, 50; 066-819111), built by the Emperor Hadrian (117-138) as a mausoleum for himself, then later converted to a fortress, is a child’s dream. Scale the 400-feet-long winding ramp to the top level, where you’ll find an angelic messenger about to take flight. Each summer, Castel Sant'Angelo stays open into the late evening hours for magic shows, mock sword fights, and musical performances. Nothing beats the view from the top on a starry night. (Open daily 9am to 7pm; call for summer hours; Closed Monday).

Spend a perfect afternoon in Villa Borghese. The best way to get there is to climb up the monumental 138 Spanish Steps from the Piazza di Spagna, to the Trinità dei Monti church above. Before you begin you up-step trek, be sure to drink some water from La Barcaccia aka "The Ugly Boat", a rowboat-like fountain at the foot of the steps, attributed to Pietro Bernini, father of his more famous son, Gian Lorenzo. The hundreds of fountains, aka nasoni (“big noses”) because of the shape of their spouts, populate Rome and flow with some of the best water in the world, so drink up!

Walk through the gardens, above the city -- counting the hundreds of domes that dot the skyline --towards Pincio, the area overlooking Piazza del Popolo. Here you’ll find a tiny amusement park for children, including a small merry-go-round where your child can indulge his vespa-riding fantasies. Rent bicycles or a surrey and explore the landscaped gardens. In the summer months, take in a puppet show at the Teatro Stabile San Carlino, which features classic shows with favorite puppets such as Pulcinella and Arlecchino. Bring a picnic if you want to avoid steep snack prices.

Sunday mornings in Rome are not complete without a trip to Porta Portese, the largest and most popular weekly street market in the city. You can find anything at here, from giant lion-headed door knockers to glittery costume jewelry, vintage postcards, dish soap, parakeets, sundresses, toy trucks and baby buggies. Anything. Be careful of pickpockets and don’t bring too much cash. Let you kids get a true taste of Italy by letting them bargain for their own souvenirs. Sundays, 7am to 1pm; to get there, take tram 8 from Largo Argentina to Piazza Ippolito Nievo.

Older kids will be impressed by the Capuchin Crypt beneath the Capuchin Church of the Immaculate Conception (1645), located on Via Veneto, near Barberini Square. Though the morbidity was lost on him, my son, at age five, was intrigued as the entire crypt is adorned with the bones of over 4,000 monks. A large clock is impressively composed of vertebrae, foot and finger bones. The cheery message posted in the last room: "What you are now, we used to be; What we are now, you will be" reminded me, as Rome always does, that we are just teensy grains in the sand of time, and so let’s enjoy today as best we can. Carpe Diem.

Il Gelato

Finally, if you need a reason to go to Italy, this is it. Mention the word gelato to me, and I begin hopelessly pining for my one true love: granita di cioccolatto, a rich chocolate sorbet (don’t forget to ask for it with extra panna -- whipped cream) from Cremeria Monteforte (Via della Rotonda 22), located on the street running along the right side of the Pantheon. This tiny gelateria proudly presents a colorful lineup of artisan ice creams. Children will enjoy choosing three flavors to round out a small cup for €2.00. (Avoid asking for three flavors in a cone -- and a drippy mess -- because this ice cream melts fast under the Mediterranean sun.)

Head over to the fountain at the center of the Piazza della Rotonda, where you can sit on the surrounding steps and admire the eternal Pantheon as you lick away at your treat. Of all the things you children will remember from their first trip to Rome, this, I assure you, will be on the tip-top of their list.

Amy Souza is a freelance writer and Italian instructor based in Chicago, Illinois. She enjoys scuba diving, snowboarding, and most of all, spending time with her 6 year-old son, Daniel.